🔗 Share this article ‘Every Chef Should Learn Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Earns 4th on Ranking of London’s Leading Restaurants. When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. However, tucked near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London. A Surprise Honour The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family totally astonished. “I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list. A Charm of Modesty The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner. The Signature Creation: Tantuni In the end, it is all about the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture. The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside. The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony. Beyond the Classic Tantuni Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”. For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile. Outranking the Giants Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations. While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount. A Creed of Warmth It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner. “In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.” This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”. The Journey of Dedication Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son. Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort. “Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares. An Accomplishment for the Culture The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.